photo by Zean Villongco
First, let me apologize for that supremely lousy title. I hate clichés as much as the next guy. But I spent a good half hour trying to find a better way to describe my initial Lubang Island experience and couldn't. So there you go.
Surprise number 1:
I first went to Lubang Island under the advice of someone who, only a couple of weeks earlier, had taken me on very long and very rough road trip to a destination that was, quite honestly, very disappointing. So when this same person told me to check out Lubang, I had some serious doubts and would not have gone if my recon trip to another place had not been canceled. As it happened, I had a freed-up week in front of me and an urgent need for a new trip destination so I boarded a cargo ship and gave Lubang Island a chance. Now I can't be more thankful that I did (sorry for yet another cliché).
Immediately upon setting foot on the port, something about the island gave me a great vibe. It wasn't the fresh air, white sandy beach or thickly forested hills. It was the complete absence of any semblance of tourism. No souvenir shops, no restaurants, no tour booths – no tourists. I then understood why I was advised to sleep at a homestay: no tourists, no tourist inns.
My homestay was another surprise. It was very decent, better than many tourist inns that I've stayed in. The rest of the day I spent walking along the beaches and farmlands just outside of town, wondering how such a nice place so near Manila could be so tourist-free.
Surprise number 2:
It's pretty hard for a beach to impress me. I've been to so many, both in the Philippines and in other countries, that I've become somewhat of a beach snob. To tell you the truth, I don't even really like beaches anymore, and find them boring unless there's a healthy coral reef just off of them.
The beaches of Lubang Island were amazing. Yes, their coral reefs were good for skin diving, but even if I kept my head above the water I would have been fulfilled. The landscape created by rocks and cliffs contrasting with sand was spectacular. I explored rock formations and discovered wave-beaten caves and hidden pools filled with colorful fish. Again I wondered, and relished, how such a place could be so unknown. Again I came face to face with my ever-present dilemma: do I really want to run trips to this pristine place? Now I pray that the lucky few I decided I will bring (only 6 groups of 7 max) will not usher in the horde.
Note to the horde:
Lubang Island is very uncool. No bars and no nightlife whatsoever. No jet skis, no banana boats and no other beach party people to take your jump picture. Totally not worth your time. Please don't surprise me by showing up there.